Yamaha G29 Drive & Drive2 Lithium Conversion Guide: Fitment, Plug Type and Install

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The Yamaha G29 “The Drive” is one of the most-converted golf carts in the country, and the Drive2 that replaced it in 2017 is just as straightforward. Both are 48V, neither has an on-board computer to bypass, and nearly every 48V lithium pack lists them by name. The two things that catch Yamaha owners out are the charger plug, which is different from the older G19 and G22 and from every other brand, and tray height on some model years, which can be tight for the taller 150Ah packs. This guide covers both, plus the full install.

Short answer: A Yamaha G29 Drive or Drive2 takes one standard 48V lithium pack (100 to 105Ah for most owners) with no OBC bypass and no controller change; measure tray-floor-to-seat-frame height before choosing a 150Ah pack, because the G29 tray is shallower than an EZGO or Club Car. The charger must have Yamaha’s 3-pin plug (the G19 and G22 use a 2-pin), and a reducer is needed if the cart has lights. The swap is one to two hours with hand tools.

Step 1: Which Yamaha Do You Have?

G29 “The Drive”Drive2 (DC)Drive2 PowerTech AC / Li
Model years2007 to 20162017 to present2017 to present
Stock batteriesSix 8VSix 8VFour 12V, or factory lithium (Li models)
Voltage48V48V48V
MotorDCDCAC
Charger plug on cartYamaha 3-pin cloverYamaha 3-pin clover; photograph itYamaha 3-pin clover; onboard charger on some Li models
On-board computerNoNoNo
Lithium pack needed48V drop-in, 100 to 150Ah48V drop-in, 100 to 150Ah48V drop-in, or replacement for factory pack

The serial number is on a plate under the driver’s seat on the frame rail, or on the front frame member near the bumper on some years. Yamaha serials start with “J” followed by a letter group that identifies the model. Count the batteries to confirm the configuration: six 8V or four 12V both mean 48V, so there is no voltage decision to make on any of these carts. The older G19 (1996 to 2002) and G22 (2003 to 2007) are also 48V on six 8V batteries and convert the same way, with the 2-pin charger plug noted below. The G16 and everything before it (G1 through G14, 1979 to 2002) are 36V carts on six 6V batteries with a crowfoot charger receptacle; they take a 36V pack, covered in best 36V lithium golf cart batteries.

Step 2: Measure the Tray Before You Order

This is the one Yamaha-specific step that matters. The G29 tray was sized for six 8V batteries lying in two rows, and on some years the clearance from the tray floor to the underside of the seat frame is less than on an EZGO or Club Car. Standard 100 to 105Ah packs at roughly 9.5 inches tall fit every G29 and Drive2 we’ve seen listed. The taller 150Ah and 160Ah packs, which can run 11 inches or more, sit high enough on some G29s to interfere with the seat. Pack sizes and weights compared.

Measure three things with the old batteries still in place: inside length and width of the tray, and the height from tray floor to the lowest point of the seat frame. Compare the height figure to the pack’s listed dimensions with at least half an inch to spare. If you’re short, either choose a 105Ah pack, or look for a 150Ah pack in a “wide and low” form factor, which several brands now sell specifically for Yamaha and older utility trays.

Step 3: What You Need to Buy

RECOMMENDED FOR THE G29 AND DRIVE2
Vatrer 48V 105Ah
9.6 in tall, so it clears the G29 seat frame where 150Ah packs may not; lists the Drive by name, UL 2271 listed, 200A BMS, Bluetooth app. Add the FORM 48V charger with the Yamaha 3-pin plug if your kit does not include one.
Check Price on Amazon

Step 4: The Conversion, Step by Step

Time: 1 to 2 hours. Tools: 1/2″ and 9/16″ wrenches or sockets, wire brush, safety glasses, and a helper. Each 8V battery weighs about 60 lb.

  1. Tow/Maintenance switch to TOW. On the G29 and Drive2 it’s under the seat, usually on the driver’s side near the controller. Key off, key out.
  2. Photograph the wiring, especially the main positive and negative, the charger receptacle wires, and any 12V accessory tap.
  3. Disconnect the main negative first, then the main positive. Tape the cable ends.
  4. Remove the series jumpers and lift out the six batteries. The Yamaha battery hold-down is a bar with two J-bolts; keep the hardware, you may reuse it.
  5. Clean the tray. Neutralize acid with baking soda solution, rinse, dry, and wire-brush rust. Yamaha trays are steel and rust readily under leaking batteries; treat any bare metal now.
  6. Set the pack with terminals toward where the main leads reach, typically the driver’s side. Fill the empty tray space with the pack’s foam spacers or a bolted block so it cannot slide.
  7. Secure the pack using the factory hold-down bar with spacers, or a ratchet strap through the tray slots.
  8. Connect main positive, then main negative, torqued to the pack manufacturer’s spec. Pre-charge the last connection for a few seconds through a resistor or a 48V bulb so the controller’s capacitors don’t trip the BMS (how to reset a tripped BMS).
  9. Connect the charger receptacle leads to the pack terminals as they were connected to the old pack (positive to positive, negative to negative). There is no OBC on a Yamaha, so no bypass is needed.
  10. Wire the reducer if fitted: fused input across the pack, output to the accessory circuit.
  11. Wake the pack if it shipped in sleep mode.
  12. Switch to RUN, key on, test drive slowly, then plug in the charger and confirm it starts a cycle.

Yamaha-Specific Notes

The Yamaha 3-pin plug

Yamaha’s 3-pin charger connector is unique to Yamaha and fewer lithium chargers ship with it than with EZGO or Club Car plugs. Three options, in order of preference: buy a kit whose listing offers a Yamaha 3-pin charger; buy a charger separately with the 3-pin; or buy an adapter for a charger you already own, accepting that an adapter does not carry the interlock pin. Replacing the cart’s receptacle with a different type works but hurts resale and means every future charger needs the same change. G19 and G22 owners have the same choice with the 2-pin plug.

Drive2 AC models and regen

PowerTech AC carts regenerate on downhills. Every golf cart lithium BMS accepts regen current, but a pack charged to 100% at the top of a long descent can briefly hit its charge limit and the engine braking will drop out for a second. It is not a fault. If your property is hilly, charge to 90% for daily use; most packs with an app allow a charge limit. Regen cutoff after a full charge, explained.

Drive2 factory lithium (PowerTech Li)

Yamaha’s own lithium pack communicates with the cart’s controller and dash. When owners replace it with an aftermarket pack, the cart runs normally but the factory state-of-charge display may go blank or freeze. An external meter fixes that. Confirm with the pack seller that they have the specific Drive2 Li year running on their pack before ordering.

The dash gauge

Like every lead-acid cart, the G29’s factory gauge reads voltage against a lead-acid curve. With lithium it sits near full most of the ride and drops fast at the end. Use the pack’s app or an external lithium meter for a true reading; why the factory meter reads wrong on lithium.

Troubleshooting After the Swap

SymptomMost likely causeFix
Cart does nothing when key is onSwitch still in TOW, or pack in sleep modeSwitch to RUN; wake the BMS via button, app, or a brief charger connection
Charger won’t startWrong plug (2-pin vs 3-pin), or lead-acid chargerMatch the plug by photo; use a lithium charger
Seat won’t close, or pack rubs the seat framePack too tall for the G29 traySwap to a 105Ah or a low-profile 150Ah pack
Lights/horn dead12V tap gone with the lead-acid packInstall a reducer
Cuts out on hillsBMS continuous rating below what the controller draws200A minimum; 250A+ for lifted carts
Engine braking drops out downhill (AC models)Regen into a full packCharge to 90%; normal otherwise
Gauge reads wrongLead-acid calibrationUse the app or a lithium meter

Charging problems that aren’t solved by the table: Lithium Golf Cart Battery Won’t Charge: 9 Causes in Order. Cart dead or stalling: golf cart won’t move after lithium conversion.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will a lithium battery fit a Yamaha G29?

Yes. Any standard 48V 100 to 105Ah pack fits the G29 tray. Taller 150Ah packs fit most years but can be tight; measure the height from tray floor to seat frame first.

Does a Yamaha golf cart need an OBC bypass for lithium?

No. Yamaha carts have no on-board computer. Connect the charger receptacle leads directly to the pack as they were on the lead-acid set.

What charger plug does a Yamaha Drive use?

The G29 Drive (2007 to 2016) and the Drive2 (2017 on) use Yamaha’s 3-pin clover plug. The older 48V G19 and G22 (1996 to 2007) use Yamaha’s 2-pin plug. The 36V G16 and earlier use a crowfoot receptacle. Photograph your receptacle and match it on the seller’s plug chart.

What size lithium battery does a Yamaha Drive need?

100 to 105Ah for a stock cart doing under 15 miles a day. 150Ah for lifted carts, big tires, or 20+ mile days, subject to tray height. Run your own numbers in the range calculator.

Will lithium make my Yamaha faster?

Top speed is set by the controller and motor, so no. Acceleration and hill climbing improve because lithium holds voltage under load and the cart loses about 250 lb.

Next Steps

Compare packs in Best 48V Lithium Golf Cart Battery, confirm the plug in the charger guide, or see the full model table in the fitment guide. Still deciding? The cost calculator runs the 10-year math with your own prices. Converting an older Yamaha? The Yamaha G16, G19 and G22 guide covers the 36V and 2-pin carts.

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